Festa di San Lorenzo

I know that I've bounced all over the place chronologically during this blog - sorry for the confusion.

Let's go back to August 10th - the Festa di San Lorenzo (Feast Day of St. Lawrence).......

When Sixtus became Bishop of Rome in 257, Lawrence was ordained a deacon and was placed in charge of the administration of Church goods and care for the poor. For this duty, he is regarded as one of the first archivists and treasurers of the Church and was made the patron of librarians..........

Lawrence is said to have been martyred on a gridiron as a part of Roman Emperor Valerian's persecution in 258. Tradition holds that Lawrence was burned or "grilled" to death, hence his association with the gridiron. Tradition also holds that Lawrence joked about their cooking him enough to eat while he was burning on the gridiron, hence his patronage of cooks and chefs, stating something along the lines of, "turn me over ... I'm done on this side". One of the early sources for the martyrdom of Saint Lawrence was the description by Aurelius Prudentius Clemens in his Peristephanon, Hymn II. (from Wikipedia)

Since Florence has a basilica dedicated to San Lorenzo, there is a special tradition held every year on the 10th of August ...... according to the "Visit Florence" website:

For the feast day of San Lorenzo, Piazza San Lorenzo hosts an outdoor celebration with live music and free lasagna and watermelon for all visitors. The event begins around 7 p.m. (after a celebratory Mass inside the San Lorenzo at 6 p.m.) when the market stalls that line the streets of the square during the daytime are finally rolled away, making room for the festivities. The food is served at 9 p.m.

David with his new buds

Well - we love FREE things, so David and I went into the city to celebrate the festa. The mass began at 6 pm - the bells rang wildly and we waited patiently on the steps outside the church.

The concert began about 8:30 pm (maybe a little later)

The concert was wonderful, but we were tired of waiting for the free food. Apparently Italians love music as much as they love food. Meno male (thank goodness) we'd decided to have a slice of pizza around 8:00 pm.

When we finally left to catch our bus home at around 10:30 pm the orchestra was still playing, and the lines for free lasagna and watermelon rivaled those at Disneyworld. Guess we're not the only ones who LOVE free things!!!

Cool Town Lucca

The Wednesday before I broke my shoulder-arm, we took a half-day-trip to Lucca. If you're ever in Tuscany, this lovely city is a "must see" and is an easy day trip from Florence via the train.

One of the unique features about Lucca is the rampart fortifications around the historic city center. Around 1500, when military technology advanced to the point that the old city walls weren't good protection, the city built a very impressive fortification system. The walls are so thick that there is a system of tunnels and passageways inside them, but they also have dirt against one side and on the top so that trees are growing along the top of the wall.



Since the rampart walls never had to be used to defend the city, they are now used as a public park - wonderful walking and bike paths along the top, huge trees that shade park benches and large areas where tables allow families to picnic and old men to play games. Lucca is a huge city, but the oldest part is contained within the ramparts - a peaceful, pleasant city perfect for exploring on foot.

We walked around the whole top, with short detours to see the oval-shaped Piazza del Mercato (which used to be the site of the Roman amphitheater), gaze up at the Torre dei Guinigi (which has oak trees growing on TOP of it) and smack down gelato at Gelato Veneto (you know - the important things :)

click here for the Gelateria Veneta website - yummmm

There are many beautiful sites to see from the wall without leaving it - such as the gardens of Palazzo Pfanner and San Martino, Lucca's cathedral. To make Lucca even prettier, the Apuan Alps are nearby - some people call this area "Little Switzerland" because of the views. Due to a run-in with the automatic ticket vending machine at the train station in Florence, we missed the early train to Lucca - but we hope to return again before we leave and see more of Lucca, the "city within a city".....

Podere del Colle

A few posts ago I had a comment requesting the link to the website that la padrona di casa (the lady of the house) has made advertising their guest apartment.

Here is the link if any of you are interested in seeing the many photos they've posted of their property, etc. There's also some great information about the history of the area . . . and of course information about the guest apartment:

click here for link to Podere del Colle website

I'm including a few of the MANY photos we've taken of the Podere del Colle - most of these are from three years ago....and here are the reasons why:

* Some of you know that I'm using a Mac computer - I'm a Windows girl and don't know hardly a hoot about Mac. So strike #1.

* On top of that, most of the commands in the tool bars, links, websites that are displayed, yadda yadda yadda are in Italian. So I'm always terrified that I'll pick an option that looks like something that sounds familiar in English and blow away the whole hard drive!!!

* And the final straw of fear is that I actually deleted every photo on my camera about a week or so ago. Thank God I had downloaded many of the photos I'd taken up to that point with Gabriele's help, but I tried to download a week's worth of photos by myself and nuked 'em!

waaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh!

Welcome to the podere.......

Pisa Posin'

While "Holly and Zack" were here we also took a day trip to Pisa to see one of the world's icons - the famous Leaning Tower.

Pisa used to have great significance as a port city - its naval power ensured dominance in the western part of the Mediterranean Sea back in the day.

Alas - Pisa's port silted up (see what happens when you don't control erosion?), and Pisa eventually lost its port, as well as its trading power.

But in its heyday, Pisa's riches financed the construction of a beautiful Cathedral (construction begun in 1064), Baptistry (begun in 1152) and the famous Tower (which was begun in 1173 and was intended to be the Cathedral's bell tower).

The tower had already started to lean in 1274 when the third story was added. The bell tower is currently over 17 feet off vertical, but was stabilized enough in the 1990's that people can once again tour the structure.

As we approached the Piazza dei Miracoli (the Miracle Square), I was reminded of the Tower of Babel described in Genesis - all sorts of languages being spoken, the constant babble of humanity surrounding me.

Even in the Baptistry, where a large sign demanded "SILENCE", people could not stop talking. However every 30 minutes, the guards close the doors, shush the visitors in the Baptistry and demonstrate the incredible acoustics of the building. No microphones needed here as ONE person vocalizes pitches - the tones amplified, spinning and forming chords as they reverberate inside the circle of marble.

Click to hear a sample of the remarkable acoustics

As prevalent as the babble are people assuming all kinds of weird poses as their friends or family take photos of them, using perspective to create the illusion that they are holding up the tower, pushing the tower, pulling the tower ..... not to mention handstands, cartwheels and other assorted contortions ....... the people-watching here is as entertaining as the monuments.

Pisa is an easy day-trip from Florence via train, and you can walk to the Cathedral complex from the train station. If you want to climb the tower, you'll need to plan on getting there early because they allow a fixed number of people in the tower at a time for 30-minute tours . . . the cost is €15.00 (almost $20).

This photo was taken the day that Holly and Zack took off to visit Cinque Terre on the coast of northwest Italy.

Zack, far left

Gabriele, next to Zack

Holly, in the middle

and the Untourists......

Bafinna, the kitty, is the little blob in the lower left corner

Fast-Track Florence....

I never got to tell you about the week that our American guests, Holly and Zack, stayed with us. It was so much fun having them here because:

#1 they were up for most anything we suggested .......

and

#2 we could understand each other.

The day after they arrived, they allowed me to give them the fast-track tour of Florence so they could get oriented to the main sites. We rode the bus into the city and walked to the historic center. Florence is perfect for walking tours - the center is compact and most of the famous sites are within that center.

The first stop had to be the Duomo - its beauty is stunning - plus the Campanile (Bell Tower) and Baptistry (with the splendid Gate to Paradise) are included in the set.

Next we walked towards the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi (the powerful Medici family crib) and headed for the church of San Lorenzo. This was the Medici's family church - and there's a huge daily street market that surrounds the church. The Mercato Centrale (Central Market) is also near - a modern structure (1800's) where you can get ANYTHING to eat (there are some strange animal parts in here).

After warning Holly and Zack to watch their pockets anytime they were in this street market area, we turned towards the Arno River - on the way we went through the elegant Piazza della Repubblica (former location of the old Roman forum and current location of several famous cafès, street entertainment can be good here too). I wanted to show them Il Porcellino in the Mercato Nuovo (New Market), but we must have missed him by a street - I reminded them to return later and rub his nose.

It's not so easy to miss the Piazza della Signoria - the vast public square containing the Palazzo Vecchio (Town Hall), the Loggia dei Lanzi (an open loggia used as a sculpture gallery - and resting place for weary tourists) and other famous statues like the Neptune Fountain and a copy of Michaelangelo's David. This piazza leads into the Uffizi complex - Italy's greatest art gallery. Also a great place for street entertainers and people watching, at this point you are within a block of the Arno River.

We crossed the Arno on the Ponte Vecchio - the oldest bridge in Florence (built in 1345) and the only bridge not destroyed by the Nazi's during WWII. This is the place to buy gold jewelry - if you have plenty of cash!

While on the other side of the Arno Holly treated me to a scrumptious lunch (air conditioning included!) - we sat at a window seat one floor off the street and watched the pedestrian traffic below us. After lunch we trotted over to Palazzo Pitti for a quick glimpse at this COLOSSAL home that Signore Pitti (a wealthy banker back in the day) built to try and "one-up" all the other fabulously wealthy families in Florence, especially the Medici's. Unfortunately he bankrupted his family . . . and the Medici's ended up living there. There's a moral somewhere in that story... The Boboli Gardens are here as well - a really nice green space when the city gets too hot and the crowds too much.

Even though there was so much to see and do, I didn't want to overwhelm them, so we decided to end the tour by heading towards a huge tower near our bus stop that used to be one of the gates to the south side of the city - Porta San Niccolo. Well, this is where having a 12 year old around is fun, because Zack encouraged us to walk up the hill "....just one more level..." until we found ourselves at Piazzale Michaelangelo - one of the best viewing points in Florence.

If ever in Florence, you must catch at least one sunset from here - the sun setting behind all the bridges crossing the Arno is so lovely.

Fall Down - Go BOOM!

My last post, over a week ago, tried to cover a "normal day" - now more than ever I realize we don't have those....

Many of you know that a week ago last Saturday I had an accident - I'm typing with my left hand only because of that event. It might not be long before I quit using capital letters - shift key action is tricky with one hand...

It's taken me a week to get to the point where I can recount the details of the accident - I'll admit a little emotional trauma.

Anyway......... Saturday evening a week ago we we were walking down the hillside to the mailbox, checking out the beautiful views like this one.

We didn't know it, but the big sheepdog that we care for escaped from the fence around the property and followed us. Kora probably weighs about 140 pounds - she is very powerful and does pretty much as she pleases.

When we realized that she was behind us, we were almost to the mailbox. Since it's a steep uphill climb, and we were lazy - we didn't turn around and take her back to the house. Bad mistake......

Kora with one of her bone "snacks"
Near the mailboxes there is another walled house, and unfortunately Kora decided to head for their gate and pick a fight with their 3 dogs. I was standing around the corner at the mailboxes, but it sounded like all h*!! was breaking loose.

Somehow David pulled Kora away from their gate and back up the hill a little way, even though we didn't have a leash. When David tried to grab Kora's collar she snapped at him, so he had to use the other end to pull her away from the gate.

I had grabbed Kora tightly by the collar, but suddenly I looked up and saw that one of the neighbor's dogs - a big black dog that looks like a wolf - had gotten out of their fence. This dog has always terrified me - even three years ago I remember being afraid of this dog. See, guns are illegal in Italy so everyone has big guarddogs. It's sure kept me honest during my visits here......

this is not our neighbor's dog - but he looks like this

Anyway, the dogs wanted to fight, and I tried my best to hold Kora, but she lunged very hard and pulled me off my feet like I was a rag doll. I was still trying to hold her collar when I hit the ground flat out with my arm extended. I knew the second I hit that something snapped, but I wasn't sure if it was bone or muscle, tendons or ligaments. Whatever it was hurt.

This is where everything gets crazy and fuzzy - dogs barking, David screaming, me wondering if the black dog would have me for supper since I was aleady down ....... or if there would be a horrible dog fight between Kora and black dog. Kora is strong, but she's not in her prime - i think black dog might have the upperpaw on her.

We don't know how, but David pulled Kora further up the hill while I managed to get off the ground. I guess the neighbors took control of black dog because I don't know what happened to him.

Kora was straining against David because she still wanted to rumble - I think he was screaming that he needed me to go get the leash. I was stumbling around in the first stage of shock, holdng my arm - hand bleeding, completely dirt-covered (of couse I had on my nice white pants because our guests were due at any moment), spitting dirt out of my mouth, wondering why my chin hurt.

Some man I'd never seen offered to take me in his car up to the house, and after he helped me find the keys that had flown out of my hand, he drove me to the house so I could get a leash for David. Poor Gabriele - I walk in looking like I've been rolling around in the dirt - telling him that he's got to help us get Kora home. He doesn't understand what has happened of course - he just gets caught up in the tornado.

They got Kora home, and I started feeling nauseous and close to passing out. My arm was swelling and it became obvious that an episode of "ER" was about to begin. David stayed home to get the guests settled, while Gabriele and I headed for the ospedale (hospital). Saturday night in the emergency room - I was thinking the worst. But I have total respect for their system now ..... I walked in and gave my info at registration, we sat in a waiting room for about 30 minutes or so, they called me back for Xrays, back to the waiting room for a few minutes, and then I was called into the treatment area for the news.

The force of the fall had fractured the top of the humerus bone of my right arm in two places. I don't remember all the conversation because the orthopaedist looking at my Xrays was speaking Italian and Gabriele was translating some of what was being said. Later Gabriele told me that the doctor told me that I could have surgery that night or wait for a week to see if the fracture remained stable. My paperwork (all in Italian) says that I "refused" surgery. I didn't know he was offering surgery that night, but I know I didn't want surgery. I think if my arm had been hanging on by a vein, I would have said "let's see if it gets better over the next few days...."

So the Pronto Soccorso (emergency room) doctor wrote me a prescription for pain and sleeping meds and called for an assistant, I was taken in an area, the curtain was pulled, the lady peeled off my shirt and trussed me up in this immobilizer contraption that keeps me from moving my arm. They said they would call the next week to set up an appointment to take more Xrays to see if surgery was necessary. With that pronouncement I was sent on my way home. Total cost of doctors. Xrays, brace, and prompt service (less than two hours) - libero - FREE!!!!!!

obviously not me - but this is my new fashion accessory - real alla moda

Monday the hospital called - my appointment would be on Thursday. This visit to the hospital was quite interesting. We went to a desk where I took a number - even though I was the only one waiting (they're big on the "take a number" system in Italy). A man took some information for the computer, gave us a piece of paper and told us to go pay. We stood in line in front of a machine in which we inserted money and received a receipt. This was to pay for seeing the doctor.

Then we were sent for the Xrays, and we were instructed we needed to pay for those also. So Gabriele went and fed the machine while David and I waited in an empty hall. That was a bit of a wait. After the Xrays, we were sent back to the desk in Radiology and waited a little more. Finally they called us to see the doctor. All 3 of us trooped into the office, and a doctor and his assistant started chattering away in Italian. I'm looking at Gabriele, who is quite reserved. I couldn't really tell at first what the verdict was, but the second I heard the words "no surgery", I jumped up and said, "grazie, Dio!!!" (thank you, God!!!).

I know so many of you have prayed for us this past week, and I cannot express my gratitude enough. Prayer is a mighty and mysterious privilege, and I do thank you for investing your time and energy to interceed for us.

Two last things - the cost of all this - doctor $16.90, Xrays $34.06, medicine $12.12 - total cost $63.08!!!!!

And you know what was in the mailbox? Two pieces of junk mail :)